Emu Oil Is Trending In Skin Care—But What Is It?

Dermatologists tell all.

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When the air’s dry and your skin’s looking lackluster with a side of flakes, it only makes sense to try whatever you can to achieve a juicy, plump complexion. Some gentle exfoliation can help, but you’ve also got to slather on the best moisturizers in order to quench a parched dermis. Emu oil is gaining traction for its serious hydrating capabilities, but is this skincare ingredient all it’s cracked up to be? We asked pros to weigh in. 

What Is Emu Oil?

Emu oil comes from the emu, a flightless bird native to Australia that looks very similar to an ostrich. These birds have a thick layer of fat on their back, which is harvested after their death and then rendered, explains Rachel Lee Lozina, licensed esthetician and founder of Blue Water Spa in Oyster Bay, New York. She adds, “The fat then goes through a rigorous refining process where it’s filtered for cosmetic use.” 

Emu oil has long been used by indigenous Australians to moisturize skin and for other holistic medicinal applications. Its usage is more widespread today, and the ingredient is found in topical skincare products across the world. 

Emu Oil Skin Benefits

There are a handful of claimed benefits of using emu oil in beauty routines. 

Moisturizer

The most popular reason people apply emu oil on their skin—and sometimes hair—is because it’s considered very moisturizing. “This is because it’s rich in fatty acids, like oleic acid and palmitic acid, which can act as emollients,” says Emily Diane Linehan, a licensed esthetician and owner of Emme Diane Skincare in Scottsdale, Arizona. 

Wound Healing 

Aside from its moisturizing properties, Linehan says that some claim emu oil can accelerate wound healing. It may help reduce inflammation, soothe minor aches and pains, and expedite skin recovery following damage. Lozina adds that it can also help those with sensitive skin or conditions such as eczema or rosacea. 

Protects Skin

Emu oil’s occlusive properties can create a barrier over the skin, benefitting overall skin barrier function while shielding from environmental stressors. 

Is Emu Oil Ethical? 

When you read that emu oil came straight from birds, you might have instantly questioned whether or not this was an ingredient worth slathering onto your skin. “Sadly, emu oil can only be extracted after the animal has died, which has raised concerns regarding how ethical its use is in skincare and cosmetics,” Linehan says. 

She’s personally not a fan of the ingredient, and the reality is that many other people are also uncomfortable using emu oil because it involves harming innocent animals. Another factor to consider is that emus aren’t really bred for their meat or eggs, which means that emu farms exist primarily for cosmetic purposes. 

Moisturizing Alternatives to Emu Oil

The good news is that there are countless alternatives to emu oil that don’t involve harming these odd-but-adorable looking birds. Better yet, many of these alternative skincare ingredients have a stronger scientific background that point to more reliable efficacy. 

“Instead of emu oil, I recommend ingredients such as ceramides, glycerin, beta-glucan, and hyaluronic acid,” Linehan says. If you prefer oil alternatives so you can enjoy some of that emollient occlusive action, consider camellia oil, plant-based squalane, rosehip oil, and jojoba oil. 

Linehan notes that these ingredients are also non-comedogenic, unlike emu oil which can trigger acne. All that said, you can enjoy the moisturizing and hydrating benefits of these alternatives while reducing the risk of breakouts. Plus, you can feel better knowing that your skincare ingredients are more ethically sourced. 

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