Is Box Dye Bad For Your Hair? Here's What Experts Say

Getting your hair dyed professionally can cost you a pretty penny—often upwards of several hundred dollars—which makes it really tempting to swing through the drugstore and pick up a box of hair dye. Dyeing your hair at home is also super convenient, allowing for quick touch-ups here and there and color changes on a whim. 

The long standing belief in the industry is that box dye is bad for your hair, but with advanced formulas and technologies you have to wonder if that still holds true. We asked the pros for the honest truth. 

The Difference Between Box Dye vs. Professional Dye

The biggest difference between box dye and professional dye is that with the former you’re getting a one-size-(might)-fit-all product while with the latter you’re getting a customized treatment. Historically, box hair dye also tends to use more aggressive formulas—particularly higher levels of ammonia—which can do more damage to your strands. This is particularly true when going for an extreme change. 

Is Box Dye Bad for Your Hair? 

The reality is that no hair dye is “good” for your hair. Both options can do some damage, but in a salon you have a professional overseeing the process and tailoring it to your needs which can make it less damaging overall. 

Interestingly, old box dye formulas were notoriously damaging and unpredictable in terms of results, but this new generation has come a long way. 

“There are some formulas that aren't as harsh as they used to be and there are now a lot of different dyes out there to choose from based on your end goal and comfortability levels,” notes colorist Katelyn Ellsworth, founder of The Roslyn. “They all don't leave your hair with streaks or a smell you can't get rid of, so in other words, there are options.”

Cyd Charisse, hair expert and founder of Destroy The Hairdresser, agrees, noting that box dyes have really had a “glow up” in recent years. 

“Modern versions often boast hydrating ingredients and less harsh chemicals. They’re like the skincare-infused makeup of the hair world,” she says. “However, they still can’t tailor themselves to your unique hair history and texture like a salon color can.” 

Benefits

• Less expensive 
• More convenient to do it at home 
• Don’t need to wait for an appointment
• Lots of color options to choose from 
• Great for temporary or quick changes

Drawbacks 

• Can go sideways if you don’t follow instructions 
• Can be more expensive in the end if you need a professional fix 
• May not give you professional-looking results 
• Results can look one-dimensional
• Some colorists don’t like working on box-dyed hair, says Charisse, since they’re not sure what canvas they’re working with.  
• Not easy to do big changes, like taking your hair from dark to light or vice versa

The Bottom Line on Using Box Dye 

Box dye formulas have advanced quite a bit over the years, with today’s products offering gentler formulas and a wider range of color options. It can be a good option for those who want to save money and desire the convenience of at-home treatments permitting they're prepared to do all the research, aren’t looking for a huge change, and can follow directions to a T. 

When dyeing at home, always do a strand test to avoid a dye blunder, and consider spending just a little bit more on higher-quality products. Ellsworth recommends shopping at a beauty supply store, where you’ll find more professional products and can glean some expert advice from the store clerk.