Ask a Beauty Editor: Are LED Masks Worth the Cost?

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Reader question: Are LED light masks worth the cost? — laurafranz7

If you've ever seen someone wearing a Stormtrooper-looking facial device for the sake of skincare, you're probably familiar with light-emitting diode (LED) masks. These machines aren't cheap—they can range anywhere between $100 to $1000—but their claims are pretty impressive, from brightening to anti-aging to acne-busting.

So then comes the million dollar (or $250, $700...however much the LED mask you want costs) question: Is it actually worth the moolah?

My vote: yes—if you get the right one for you. Not all LED masks are equal (more on that later), so it's important that you use one that best suits your skincare needs.

But ultimately, the convenience itself is worthwhile—you can literally do it while chilling in bed and sipping pinot. Not to mention that it's financially smart in the long run—although it may take longer, you can reap the same results you would get in an in-office treatment, all while saving the effort of commuting to the doctor and money for office visits.

Here's everything you need to know about the futuristic tech.

How do LED masks work?

LED light therapy actually comes from NASA technology where it was used to heal wounds and quell inflammation. It then made its way into dermatology clinics, where it eventually evolved into portable, at-home LED devices.

What do these colorful lights do? "LED masks are programmed to emit light in a certain color, which corresponds to its respective wavelength within the visible light spectrum (think ROY- G- BIV!)," says Christine Choi Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist. "These gadgets target different depths of the skin, where the light is then absorbed by skin receptors." Different wavelengths create a different response on the skin, and the skin benefits are dependent on the color of light emitted.

"Unlike the photo-damage induced by in-office lasers, this is a much more gentle way of altering skin function. However, because they are less powerful than the treatments you'd get at a dermatologist's office, it may take longer to see visible results," adds Rachel Maiman, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical.

What are the benefits of LED masks?

LED masks for the skin help treat a variety of different skin concerns, such as firming the skin, combating wrinkles, reducing inflammation, preventing breakouts, and regulating oil production.

Green light is typically used for hyperpigmentation by targeting melanocytes, quelling toxic free radicals, and breaking up melanin clusters. "It inhibits the production of excess melanin and prevents it from traveling to the skin surface," says Dr. Maiman. On the other hand, red light triggers cells called fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin, making it ideal for anti-aging. This can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and thin skin.

And lastly, blue light is typically used to treat acne. "Blue light stimulates the production of oxygen radicals that kill the acne-causing bacteria C. acnes," says Dr. Maiman. "It has also been shown to reduce activity in the sebaceous glands, so they produce less of the oil that can plug pores and trigger acne." When used in combination with red light, the LED mask can help get rid of acne redness.

Can you use different LED lights at the same time?

Absolutely! "Because red light has also been shown to reduce the production of cytokines, which cause inflammation, it is commonly used in combination with blue light to manage inflammatory conditions like acne and rosacea," says Dr. Maiman.

Are there any side effects to LED masks?

After years of being taught that UV light is dangerous, it might seem counterintuitive to intentionally treat your face with light. But don't worry—LED light is completely safe and won't cause any damage. In fact, LED masks have an "excellent" safety profile, according to a review published in February 2018 in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. "LEDs are usually very safe for all skin colors and types as the procedure is non-invasive and does not require the application of any topicals with the potential for irritation," agrees Dr. Maiman.

That being said, Dr. Kim says that there are some concerns of eye damage, especially if you have a history of seizures or migraines triggered by bright lights, so always shield the eyes or wear eye protection when using a LED device. People who take photosensitizing medications like lithium, certain antipsychotics, or some antibiotics should avoid LED light altogether.

Marina Peredo, MD, board-certified dermatologist, also notes that you may experience redness and tenderness if overused. Make sure to check the specific guidelines of the product you are using; according to Dr. Kim, exposure times with LED masks are typically short (10 to 20 minutes) and only need to be performed several times a week. If you notice any redness or signs of sensitivity, stop immediately and consult a dermatologist.

How long will it take to see results?

If you're looking to see an instant improvement, at-home LED light therapy probably isn't for you. Remember what I said about these gadgets not being nearly as powerful as an in-office treatment? You'll likely have to wait a minimum of four to six weeks, or longer, to notice any visible skin improvements. "Make sure you are the type of person who will be consistent with using it because it won't do any good otherwise," adds Dr. Kim.

Also, it's helpful to keep your expectations in check. If you have more established wrinkles or severe (read: cystic) acne, talk to your dermatologist about other possible treatments (like Botox or Accutane), as your skin may not be very responsive to at-home light therapy.

The Best LED Light Masks

If you're curious to try LED masks at home, shop some of my favorites below.